Textiles

India’s westernmost state, created in 1949 formerly known as Rajputana is also one of the most colorful part of India. The area is diagonally divided by the Aravali hills, the area to the northwest is a largely taken up by desert where drought and famine are constant threats. In spite of sterile land it is frequently described as ‘colorful’ or ‘vibrant’: epithets that spring not from any natural luxuriance but rather from the traditional way of life and, in particular ,the brilliant costumes of Rajasthanies, which enliven the desert landscape and relieve the monotony of the sand, rock and scrubby trees. In contrast to the predominant white clothing of the lush green areas of the southern and western India, in Rajasthan the glowing red and yellow Odanies or turban is valued as an affirmation of life in the face of hardship and deprivation of the most basic kind. In total the production of Textiles accounts 21.96 % in the state. Out of 862 spinning mills in India, 69 spinning mills are in Rajasthan.

India is a country with an extremely rich cultural heritage that is very well preserved by the Indian people who highly respect their ancestors. This beautiful culture reflected in just about every life aspect of the Indian people, including in their textile industry. Indian fabrics are known all over the world for their quality and uniqueness, that's why it's not surprising that the textile industry has become one of the largest industries in this country which provided so many jobs for millions of people. Today, India has become one of the most important textile producers in the world. It's the second largest producer of fiber in the world with cotton as its main product. Even though India also produces various other types of fibers like wool, jute, silk, and man-made fibers, its textile industry is mainly based on cotton.
Besides being one of the largest textile producers in the world, India itself is a huge market for textile products. So with the revival of the economic market in 2009 and high domestic demand, the textile industry in India experienced a huge boost. Jaipur, as well as other textile industry regions in India like Gujarat and others, have played a very important role in the growth of the Indian textile industry as well as the economic growth of the nation.

Textiles of Rajasthan: 

Textile is one of the most particular and specific expressions of that nations culture and heritage. In villages of Rajasthan, textile traditions, learned via a costume tradition and spanning countless generations. The glory of Rajasthan, apart from the bravery of its Rajput rulers, forts, and royalty, is also associated with the production of color fabrics in the Maru-Gurjar tradition since ancient times. Their sense of color-aesthetics has led to the use of colors and motifs intended for different occasions. There are regional variations too, in western Rajasthan, Garasia women wear Garasion ki phag, a veil with a yellow ground and red border, and a large round in the center. Mina women wear dhaniya chunari while Gujar women prefer rati chunri, and a Malan wears a Ghaghara or skirt of asmani, dhani and chakari farad or yardage.
Rajasthani textiles have developed an excellent range of colours and have mastered another technique in which the background is in light colour while the patterns are in dark colours. This is done by dyeing sections of the fabric in the preferred colour with the use of a piece of felt and then tying. The cloth is bleached and only the tied sections hold back the colours. After this the background colour is generally fade and the completed bandhni arises with dark coloured doted pattern on a light background. The red chunari, which is used as a cover by young married women in rural areas, is never fade in fast colour bandhnis. A beautiful design decorated in a particular style is the age old creativity that rule extremely in Rajasthan. The art of bandhni is highly accomplished process and Rajasthani artisans have come a long way in developing new designs and patterns every time fashion statement changed. Now the tie and dye clothes are one of the most exported fabrics of India which also carries the heritage of Rajasthan along with it.

Introduction of Fabric:

The fabrics of Rajasthan are decorated with wonderful designs and vibrant colours. The ancient art of textiles in Rajasthan uses fibers like cotton, silk and wool to make attractive designs and textures. In Rajasthan, as in other parts of India, the royal ancestry inspired master-craftsmen to make the best fabrics. Rajasthani textiles discover handmade textiles that are mostly used for clothing Century-old skills carry on to produce some of the most creative textiles in Rajasthan which are admired and collected not only by experts in India but are popular all across the world. Rajasthani textiles discover handmade textiles that are mostly used for clothing Century-old skills carry on to produce some of the most creative textiles in Rajasthan which are admired and collected not only by experts in India but are popular all across the world.

Rajasthan is the heartland of hand-block printing also. Magnificent, remarkable combinations of red colours, shocking pink, purple and orange, greenish-blue and parrot green, saffron and crimson, incorporated with touches of gold and silver steal the limelight in any gathering. Rajasthan textiles are the mirror of the real core of block printing. Most of the work is done by hand only. The art of block printing and coloring is associated with home furnishing and fabric for personal wear as well. The main centers for the block printing in Rajasthan are Sanganer and Bagru. The procedure of hand block printing consist of artisans to soak carved wooden blocks in different colours and then paste them on the fabric thus creating some mystic wonder on the piece of cloth. Delicate floral prints and patterns prepared in vegetable colour is the specialty of Rajasthan block printing. The art of Khari or overprinting in gold is also broadly practiced in Rajasthan. This makes the traditional form of block printing even more attractive and fashionable in the region.

Main Display Season for Rajasthani Fabric:

The main display season for Rajasthani textiles are during the fairs and festivals of the region. Majority of the Rajasthani textiles are sold in the Nakki Lake Fair, Ramdeoji Fair, Pushkar Fair, Baneshwar Fair,Janmashtami Fair and during the festivals of Teej and Gangaur. Rajasthan is a land of exciting colours; these colours are a beautiful part of the Rajasthani life and are found in the busy bazaars, in fairs and festivals, in the costumes worn and in the traditional paintings & murals. Rajasthani textiles are the representative of that countless shades woven in the cloth. Be it the multi coloured tie and dye work or excellent block printing, Rajasthan surprise the entire world with its skill and competence through its amazing textiles and fabrics. Tourists visiting Rajasthan must buy some excellent Rajasthani textiles, which are going to make their memory always colourful and bright.

Methods to make the Textiles of Rajasthan Beautiful and Attractive: Different methods are used to make the textiles of Rajasthan beautiful and distinctive. Lahariya, Mothda, Ekdali and Shikari are the most famous patterns among all the styles of `bandhni` and every design show a unique look and nature. Lahariya and Mothra are very much alike patterns where Lahariya has long lines in a variety of shades running diagonally through the whole piece of cloth and Mothra showcases a dazzling checked effect with opposite diagonals. The human and animal figures depicting carefully in the amazing colours is the identity of Shikari bandhni. Ekdali pattern shows small circles and squares in different shades of colour and the cluster of three, four and seven multi coloured dots make it even more beautiful. Sikar and Jodhpur are the most preferential destinations for excellent textile works while Jaipur, Barmer, Pali, Udaipur and Nathdwara are still on their way to reach the best market for Rajasthani textiles. Rajasthani textiles come in an attractive range of colored and block-printed fabric which is further decorated with embroidery. The women of Rajasthan have mastered the art of embroidering fabrics.

Different Types of Textiles: The most significant variety of traditional textiles, both in technique and style, has carry on even to the present day. It forms the basis for further progress in pattern and design, thus defining the principles of arts of the region and representing the rising social and cultural values of its people. Just like any other region of the world, Rajasthani textiles also specializes in emerging some brilliant fabric and the most valuable one of the region is the tie and dye work which is also called `Bandhni` in local language. Tie and dye work, known as Bandhej or Bandhni is well-known all over Rajasthan in the form of colourful Odhnis and Saffas.

For centuries the people of Rajasthan have accomplished the art of printing using the vegetable dyes and mineral colours. The Rajasthani textiles come in a broad range of" Embroidered’’ fabrics ,"Tie & Die fabrics", and 'Block printing'. The Textile of Rajasthan has an attractive range of colored and block printing fabrics. Each state has its own particular colour-scheme design and technique. The various types of Textile are:-
Applique work : It is an art where different pieces of cloth are fixed together. The interesting colour, shape and pattern combinations against contrasting background catch the eye.

Jaipuri Quilt: These are light weight quilts. The weight of these quilts is as low as 250 gm. The specialty of these quilts is that these are very warm in spite of such a low weight. These quilts are soft & cozy. The outer cover is of cotton or silk with Rajasthani prints on it Quilted garments are also constructed in Jaipur. These are in high demand.

Tie & Dye : This is a highly skilled art. The fabric is tied into small points with clothes. When the fabric as a whole is colored the knotted points remain undyed. These undyed points along with a dyed portion give a distinctive look. This art is called "Bandhej''.

Block Printing: Rajasthan is the heart of block printing. Most of the work is done by hand only. The art of block printing & dyeing is connected with home furnishing and fabric for personal wear. The main centers for the block printing are Sanganer and Bagru.

Sanganeri Prints: Sanganer is a village of Jaipur. The printing style is called as Sanganeri Print. Cotton fabrics using vegetable colors are printed. Red and Orange with floral prints in yellow and blue is the technique of this print. This fabric is in enormous demand from the chief fashion centers throughout the world.

Bagru Prints: Bagru is a small town which is 30 KM. from Jaipur Bagru prints have the art of printing a distinctive style of its own. The circular patterns in vegetable colours mostly in black and brick colors with bold prints is the specialty of this printing.

Batik: Batik is a medium that lies somewhere between art and craft, and is believed to be at least 2000 years old. The Batik technique is a development of resist printing. The fabric is painted with molten wax and then dyed in cold dyes after which the cloth is washed in hot water.
Bandhani: Jaipur and Sikar are the notable centers. Sikar produces one of the finest Bandhanis. Another form of tie and dye in Rajasthan is the Lehriya and Mothra. Here the opposite ends of the length of the cloth are pulled and rolled together. They are then tied and dyed in different colors producing multicolored lines.

Barmeri Print: Barmer from western Rajasthan produces prints that are known for their bold geometric patterns, called 'AJRAKH'. Barmer an area in the middle of the Thar Desert is known for darker shades because people in the desert believed that dark shades are cooler as they absorb sunrays.

Kota Doria Cloth: A typical style of weaving makes the kota doria cloth special. Now a days machines does the job, but its style is still maintained. Very soft and light, kota doria cloth gives a look of net where its weaving is visible. Available in white only, now its died to produce as many shades of a color.

Embroideries: The art of decorating woven fabric with various kinds of stitches is known as embroidery. Embroidery is done on cotton, wool and silk. Embroidery is also done on traditional footwear in some parts of the country.

Mirror Work Embroidery: Be it a turban, a flared skirt, a veil or a sari - the colour combinations are unusual and brilliant. The women of Rajasthan have mastered the art of embroidering fabrics. Embroidery practised in Bikaner is done by counting threads. The use of double stitch method results in creating an effect on both sides, giving a semblance of bandhani. The women of Sikar and Jhunjhunu specialise in making patterns of animals. Chain stitch is popular in Alwar. Dancing figures, flowers, peacocks and Mandala, the tree of life are the Favorited motifs. Women of Barmer use mirrors, thus enhancing the beauty of the embroidered piece. Other patterns such as the surface satin stitch, herringbone stitch and geometric styles are a specialty of Barmer.

Leheriya: Practiced exclusively in Rajasthan, Leheriya is a tie-dye technique which results in a glistening cloth with distinguishing patterns. Done on thin cotton or silk cloth, the lengths of Leheriya are usually appropriate for Sarees & Turbans. Usage of Indigo is prominent for coloring Leheriya, giving a dazzling look to the fabric.
Fun Fact: Turbans of Leheriya cloth were a popular male fashion choice in the 19th & 20th century.

The City of Jaipur: Jaipur, which also known as the Pink City is located in Northern India that was founded by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II on 18 November 1727, the city itself, was named after the Maharaja. Today, Jaipur is the home of more than 3 million people. Rajasthan is one of the royal states in India that is known for its textile industry. The city of Jaipur, as the capital of Rajasthan has become one of the most important textile industry centrals in India. Jaipur is not only known for its high quality fabrics manufacturing industries, this city has also become the trade center for Indian textiles as well as all kinds of traditional handicrafts and exotic jewelries. A lot of travellers come to this city everyday just to visit the markets to shop for Jaipur fabric, Indian bed sheets & covers, carpets, metalwork's, jewelries, gems, handicrafts, antiques, leatherwear, pottery, and many others. Some of the most famous markets in Jaipur are Nehru Bazar, Bapu Bazar, Jauhari Bazar, M.I. Road, Mahiharon Ka Rasta, Haldiyon Ka Rasta, and Kishanpol Bazar. The fact that this city is also a tourist destination in India making Jaipur fabric even more popular all over the world. Its bright colored fabric and textile really represent the richness of Indian tradition, that's why they could be great souvenirs for travelers who visit India.

History: Textile is more than just lucrative industry that has generated billions of dollars of revenue for the country every year. But much more than that, it's also an important part of their ancient culture and tradition. Weaving and spinning of cotton have become a part of the Indian tradition since thousands of years ago. Textile trade has existed in India since the earliest centuries, a lot of archeological evidences showed that Indian textiles were exported to the Nile Civilization in Egypt during medieval times. Many of these evidences were found in ancient tombs in Egypt, such as block printed and resist-dyed fabrics originated from Gujarat that were found in tombs of Foster. The silk route in China played a vital role in the distribution of Indian textiles all the way to the western countries in the late seventeenth and eighteenth century. During the industrial revolution in the west, Indian textiles became one of the most sought after products to fulfill the needs of the European industries. Until today, Indian textiles still maintain their existence by providing the needs of high quality textiles for the people all around the world from Asia to Europe.

Jaipur Fabric: Every state in India usually has their own uniqueness in apparels as well as the fabrics they use. As a city in a royal state of India, Jaipur fabrics are not only beautiful and unique, but also presenting the royal touch in their designs, giving the ultimate elegance that captivate anyone's eyes. Another thing that makes Jaipur fabric different from the rest of Indian fabrics is the distinctive of its manufacturing process that can't be copied or developed anywhere else. Jaipur fabrics are colorful, bright, and superior in quality. These fabrics that mostly used to produce the famous Indian bed sheets & covers, Sarees, Lehengas, and many other textiles are manufactured using traditional techniques that have been used for many centuries. Jaipur fabrics are hand-woven fabrics that are dyed using traditional method with natural colors from minerals or plants, and then printed with block printing method. However, the techniques used and also the designs of Jaipur fabrics produced in different parts of the district have their own uniqueness. This has generated even more variants of Jaipur fabrics, and provides more options for the buyers. There are several different kinds of Jaipur fabrics. They are made using different methods that will make them suitable to serve different purposes.

Bandhej Fabric: Bandhej fabric is a type of Jaipur fabric that is very popular in India and throughout the world. Bandhej or also known as Bandhani is actually a term used to describe the manufacturing process of a fabric, which involves tying and dyeing. The art of dyeing has been practiced in India since the pre-historic times. Many ancient texts during the time of Alexander the Great mention the beauty of printed cottons from India. Bandhej itself is a complicated process that requires high skill. To produce various patterns, the fabric is tied with a thread at several points. To get the desired pattern, the maker must tie the fabric in the right manner. A cloth with the length of 1 meter could require thousands of tiny knots in order to produce a desired pattern. It takes years of practice to be able to produce fabrics with beautiful patterns using this method. Bandhej fabrics are commonly used to make sarees, lehengas, and suits. Today you can find various high quality sarees, lehengas, and suits made out of bandhej fabrics in designer stores.
According to some historical texts, Bandhej saree was first used in a royal marriage during the era of Bana Bhatt's Harshacharita. Wearing a Bandhej saree in a wedding is believed to bring good luck for the bride in the future. Besides known as a type of Jaipur fabric, Bandhej fabrics can also be found in other parts of India, such as Gujarat, which is also famous for its textile products. However, each area has its own uniqueness in applying the Bandhej technique. They also apply different colors and patterns, giving distinct characters to the fabrics they produce.

Bagru Fabric: Bagru is actually a small village within Jaipur district, which is famous for its natural dyes and hand block printing techniques in producing high quality fabrics. Everywhere you go in this village you will see people dyeing or printing fabrics. The Chippa community is a group of people who have been applying these fabric’s manufacturing methods for more than a century. However, the technique itself has already existed for more than 300 years. The hand block printing method is also known as Bagru prints, which is considered as a very unique method that cannot be found anywhere else. This technique involves a wooden block that is engraved with the desired design, which then used like a stamp to apply the pattern on the fabric with the desired color.

What makes Bagru fabrics more exceptional is the Eco-friendly nature of the products. Bagru fabrics only use natural colors in the dyeing and printing process. For example, to apply background color on a fabric, they often use fuller's earth they collect from the riverside. After they smear the cloth, then they will dip it in turmeric water. This will give the cloth a soft cream color. As for the pattern, they will use earthly shades to print the desired designs. Besides earth, they also use vegetable dyes in the process. For example they use turmeric to produce yellow color, madder root for red, pomegranate mixed with indigo for green, and indigo alone for blue. Most Bagru fabrics are designed with beautiful ethnic floral patterns. Bagru fabrics are used to make various kinds of textile products, but they are most known for their bed sheets & covers. In fact, High quality Indian bed sheets that are exported to many countries all over the world are mostly originated from Bagru.

Batik: Batik is a medium that lies somewhere between art and craft, and is believed to be at least 2000 years old. The Batik technique is a development of resist printing. The fabric is painted with molten wax and then dyed in cold dyes after which the cloth is washed in hot water.

Sanganeri Fabric: Sanganeri fabrics originated from the town of Sanganer, which is located 16 km south of Jaipur. Sanganeri fabrics are one of a kind because of their unique compositions of color and patterns. Most of their fabrics have bright colored patterns printed on white backgrounds. The printing process also done by using hand block printing methods. These fabrics are also commonly used as bed sheets and bed covers. Sanganer is known to produce top quality, hand printed bed sheets to answer the demand from the local and international market.

Applique work: It is an art where different pieces of cloth are fixed together. The interesting Colour, shape and pattern combinations against contrasting background catch the eye.

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